How to use and wash microfibre cloths

How to use and wash microfibre cloths

Short answer

Soak a new cloth once for 15 minutes, then work with it lightly damp using water alone, and wash it at 40°C with no fabric softener and no tumble dryer.

That is the whole of the maintenance. Stick to it and your cloth will keep absorbing the way it did on day one. Below you will find what to do at every step, and what to do when a cloth seems to have stopped taking up water.

What do you do with a new cloth before you first use it?

One soak per cloth, and only when it is new. Never again after that.

  • 1

    Soak the new cloth for 15 minutes in lukewarm or warm water. Soaking opens up the fibres, so they absorb at full strength from the very first wipe. You do this once per cloth, only when it is new. So not before every use, and not after a wash either.

  • 2

    Then wring it out well. A cloth that is too wet smears instead of absorbing. Lightly damp is exactly right.

This step is only for new cloths. After that you simply take your iZi-Clean Wonder Cloth out of the cupboard and get going.

iZi-Clean Wonder Cloths in woven microfibre in four colours, ready to use with water alone
One soak, a good wring out, and the fibres absorb at full strength from the very first wipe.

How damp should the cloth be?

Always damp. Not dry, not wet.

Damp is the state in which the cloth does its work. Run it under the tap, wring it out firmly and wipe with light pressure. That way the fibres lift the dirt and the surface dries behind you virtually streak-free.

Looking for something else for around the house? Have a look at cleaning.

Do not use it dry. A dry cloth feels harder and glides less easily across a surface. That is exactly when it can damage something delicate, think of a spectacle lens, a screen or high-gloss paintwork. Damp, the cloth is softer, it picks up more and it works more safely.

Too wet is the mistake people make most. The water left behind on the surface dries into precisely the marks you were trying to remove. Pressing harder does not help, because then you are pushing moisture around instead of taking it up. If your cloth has gone too wet after all, just dry the surface off afterwards with a dry cloth.

Which side do you use, and how do you fold it?

Fold it into quarters. That gives you eight clean faces, one after another.

A cloth only works for as long as the bit touching the surface is still clean. So fold it into quarters: that gives you eight faces to work through one at a time. As soon as a face is full, you turn it over instead of walking back to the tap.

Noticing smears again? Then the cloth is saturated. A full cloth hands the dirt and grease back to the surface. Rinse it out or pick up a clean one, and the problem is gone.

Do you need cleaning products?

For most jobs, no. Water is enough.

The fibres lift the dirt off by themselves, so you do not have to loosen it chemically first. That saves you bottles in the cupboard, and it saves soap residue, which comes back later as a thin haze on glass and mirrors.

On a greasy or very dirty surface you can add something. A little washing-up liquid, multi-purpose cleaner or vinegar is fine. Leave the harsh products where they are: bleach and ammonia attack the fibres.

Does the cloth work on every surface?

On almost anything smooth. On delicate materials, test on an out-of-sight corner first.

Surface How to tackle it
Glass, mirrors and windows Damp with water alone, in long, even strokes in one direction. With a damp cloth the glass dries virtually streak-free; you only need to dry it off if the cloth was too wet.
Stainless steel and high-gloss Fingerprints come off in a single stroke. Follow the direction of the grain in the steel.
Screens, glasses and monitors Damp, never dry. A dry cloth feels harder and can scratch exactly these delicate surfaces. Damp, the fibres are soft and lint-free.
Worktops, cupboards and appliances Here the cloth can be a little wetter. For baked-on grease, add a small amount of a mild product.
Varnished wood and polished metal Damp works well here. On delicate or older paintwork, test on an out-of-sight spot first and wipe lightly. Never use the cloth like a scouring pad on high-gloss or delicate finishes.
iZi-Wash Sheets laundry sheets, one sheet per wash and no fabric softener needed
One sheet in with the wash. No cap, no spills, no residue in the fibres.

How do you wash the cloths?

At 40°C, apart from your cottons, and without fabric softener.

  • 1

    Sort by colour. Coloured cloths can go on releasing dye for a long time. That goes for a lot of textiles; you just rarely notice, because there is usually all sorts in the drum at once. So wash coloured cloths together.

  • 2

    Wash them apart from cotton. Towels and cotton laundry leave lint behind that catches in the weave. Together with other microfibre is fine.

  • 3

    Wash at 40°C. Hotter is not necessary and not good for the fibre.

  • 4

    Use iZi-Wash Sheets or powder detergent. If you go for powder, add a splash of vinegar to the fabric softener compartment.

  • 5

    Let them air dry. Not in the tumble dryer, not on the radiator, and no ironing.

What must not go in: fabric softener, liquid detergent, capsules or laundry pearls, bleach and ammonia. The iZi-Wash Sheets are the easiest choice here, because they dissolve completely and leave no residue in the fibres. You will find all the varieties in the laundry sheets collection.

Fabric softener is the number one reason a cloth stops absorbing. It lays a thin film around every fibre. The cloth feels soft afterwards, but it no longer takes up the water. That absorbing is exactly what you bought it for.

The tumble dryer does the same thing, only permanently. Heat damages the fibre, and that damage never comes back. Air drying costs nothing and buys you years.

How often should you wash the cloths?

After a big clean, or every one to two weeks with normal use.

A clean cloth absorbs more and lasts longer, so waiting until it is properly dirty works against you. If you have a set, you just put the whole lot in the machine together at the end of your round.

What is the best way to store them?

1

Dry and clean. Only put them away once they are completely dry. A damp cloth in a closed cupboard will go musty.

2

Closed away. A closed bag, box or drawer keeps dust and dirt out until you reach for them again.

3

Out of the sun and away from heat. Direct sunlight fades the colour, heat sources damage the fibre.

How long does a cloth last?

Maintenance decides the lifespan more than anything else does.

A cloth that keeps its structure will keep giving you the same result for years. Our cloths take dozens of washes without you noticing anything change, as long as you stick to the washing advice above.

With fabric softener, or one spin in the tumble dryer, you notice within a few washes that something is off. So the difference between a cloth that lasts a year and one that lasts five is not in the product, it is in the machine.

My cloth will not take up water any more. What now?

In almost every case it is fabric softener, and that can be put right.

If the water runs over your cloth instead of into it, wash it a few times at 40°C with iZi-Wash Sheets, or with powder detergent and a splash of vinegar in the fabric softener compartment. Then let it air dry. The absorbency usually comes straight back.

If it keeps pushing the water ahead of it, there is a good chance it has been in the tumble dryer. That fibre damage is permanent and no wash will undo it. A cloth like that can still do the rough jobs, but for glass and other fine work it is time for a new one.

iZi-Clean Dark Pack with four anthracite grey microfibre cloths for the rougher jobs
Keep a separate cloth for the rough jobs and your good set stays looking good.

Why treat these cloths like a piece of jewellery?

They are woven. That makes them even and lint-free, and sensitive to sharp edges.

Drying a pizza wheel or cleaning a rough, unfinished windowsill can pull a thread out of the weave. The cloth carries on working perfectly well afterwards, it just is not as smart to look at. Keep a separate cloth to hand for that kind of job, such as the Dark Pack, and your good set stays neat for years.

A coarser, tougher weave would stand up to that better, but it never gets the same clarity on your glass and your worktop. That result is what we choose, deliberately.

What households notice about this

The questions we get are almost never about the cloth itself. They are about fabric softener, about the tumble dryer, and about a cloth that has been dragged along a sharp edge. That is why the washing advice above is written out so fully: it is the only thing you need to remember.

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What you need to keep it up

A set of cloths and the right wash. That is all there is to it.

Frequently asked questions about use and care

Do I have to soak a new cloth first, and how often?

Only when it is new, and then exactly once. Soak it for 15 minutes in lukewarm or warm water and wring it out well afterwards. Done.

This is the question we get most, so to be completely clear: you do not need to soak it again before every use, and not after a wash either. Once you have soaked a cloth, you never have to do it again, not even a hundred washes later.

What temperature do I wash my microfibre cloths at?

At 40°C. Without fabric softener and without liquid detergent, capsules or laundry pearls. Wash with iZi-Wash Sheets, or with powder detergent and a splash of vinegar in the fabric softener compartment.

Bacteria do not die at 40°C though, do they?

Quite right, bacteria do not die at 40°C. That is not how a cloth gets clean either. The detergent lifts them off the fibre, the drum knocks them loose and the rinse water carries them away. So they leave with the water, they are not boiled.

What stays behind dries out, and that is a problem for bacteria: they need moisture to live and multiply. So a properly dried cloth goes back into your cupboard clean.

If you do want to kill them, you have to go to 60°C or higher. That is the standard in hospitals and care homes, where they work with vulnerable patients and with pathogens you do not come across at home. For your kitchen, bathroom and windows it is not necessary, and it costs you something: high temperatures attack the fine fibre structure that makes the cleaning work in the first place. At 40°C you keep that structure intact and your cloth lasts for years.

Can the cloths go in the tumble dryer?

No. Heat damages the fibre and that damage does not come back. Let them air dry, out of direct sunlight and not on the radiator. There is no need to iron them either.

Why can I not use fabric softener?

Fabric softener lays a thin film around the fibres. The cloth feels soft afterwards, but it stops taking up moisture. That is precisely the effect you use the cloth for.

My cloth will not take up water any more. Is it finished?

Usually not. Wash it a few times at 40°C with iZi-Wash Sheets, or with powder detergent and a splash of vinegar in the fabric softener compartment, and let it air dry. The absorbency often comes back. If it has been in the tumble dryer, the fibre damage is permanent.

Which cleaning product can I use?

Water alone is often enough. If you do want to add something on a greasy or very dirty surface, you can use washing-up liquid, vinegar or multi-purpose cleaner. Not harsh products such as bleach and ammonia.

Do I use the cloth wet, damp or dry?

Always damp. Wring it out well: it should feel damp and not wet. Too wet means water left on the surface that dries into marks. We advise against dry, because then the cloth feels harder and can damage a delicate surface.

Why do I have to wash microfibre separately?

Because lint from towels and cotton catches in the weave and ends up on your glass afterwards. Washing it together with other microfibre cloths is no problem.

Why do I have to sort by colour?

Because coloured cloths can go on releasing dye for a long time. Plenty of textiles do that; you just rarely notice, because there is usually all sorts in the drum at once. So wash coloured cloths together.

How often should I wash the cloths?

After a thorough clean, or every one to two weeks with normal use. A clean cloth absorbs more and lasts longer.

What is the best way to store microfibre cloths?

Completely dry, somewhere clean, ideally in a closed bag, box or drawer. That keeps them dust-free until you reach for them again. Keep them out of direct sunlight and away from heat sources.

My cloth has a pulled thread, is it ruined?

No. The cloths are woven and therefore sensitive to sharp edges and rough surfaces. A snag or a pulled thread is a shame to look at, but the cloth carries on working exactly as before.

How long does an iZi-Clean cloth last?

That depends above all on how you wash it. Without fabric softener and without the tumble dryer, the cloths take dozens of washes without you noticing a difference. If your question is not covered here, have a look at the frequently asked questions.

Streak-free windows: the six golden rules

"I do exactly what you say and I still see streaks." This is the question we get most often. It is nearly always down to one of these six.

  • 1

    Wring the cloth out harder than you think you need to. This is by far the most common cause. If too much water stays in the cloth you get wet smears that dry into streaks, and in sunlight you see them at their clearest. Wring it out well by hand after rinsing. If you want to get even more moisture out, wrap the long side of the cloth around a tap and twist it round. It should feel damp, not soaking.

  • 2

    Dust sticks to wet smears. If moisture is left standing on the glass, dust particles settle into it. Compare it with a freshly washed car: a few hours later there is already a thin film on it. If you live on a busy road or near building work, you see it sooner. So wringing out well keeps your windows clean for longer as well.

  • 3

    Degrease greasy windows first. Cooking fumes, smoke and some cleaning products leave a film of grease behind. Wipe the glass first with water and a splash of vinegar. If you still see a light haze, that is usually an old layer from your previous cleaning product; repeat it a few times and it goes on its own.

  • 4

    Struggling to wring it out? Use the spray method. Mist the window lightly with water and then wipe it off with a dry iZi-Clean cloth. That way the cloth never gets too wet. This is also the kindest method if you have less strength in your hands or wrists.

  • 5

    Put a little vinegar in your spray bottle. That degreases a bit more and helps you to a streak-free, hygienically clean result, without having to reach for a bottle of glass cleaner.

  • 6

    Give really dirty windows a first pass. If there is sand or coarse dirt on them, take that off first with a separate cloth or a sponge. Grains of sand can scratch. For something greasy like an extractor hood, warm water with a little washing-up liquid or a degreaser works fastest. Then wipe it off with your iZi-Clean cloth.

Still seeing streaks after three goes at the same window? Then look above at My cloth will not take up water any more, because in that case it is the cloth and not the technique. There is more to read too: which cloth to use in which room and why microfibre works better than an ordinary cloth.

Ready to have more of them in the house?

Once you clean this way, you want a clean cloth to hand in every room. Join more than 300,000 households cleaning with water alone.

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30 days to change your mind. Questions about your cloths? We are easy to reach.

Want to know which cloth to reach for in which room? Read Microfibre cloths: which cloth for which room? And if you want to know why water alone is enough, that is in Why does microfibre work better than an ordinary cloth?